Warm camper van interior with heating on in winter

October comes round, the nights get cooler and up comes the question that decides whether your camper is a three-season or a four-season one: what heating do I fit? Being cold at night is one of the quickest ways to lose the appetite for travelling, so choosing well is worth the effort. Let's look at the real options, what each one uses and their small print on safety.

Diesel parking heater

This is the most popular option in camper vans, and with good reason. It takes diesel from the vehicle's own tank (or an auxiliary one), burns it in a sealed chamber and pushes warm air into the living space. Its advantages: it heats a lot, it uses little fuel and it doesn't generate moisture inside, because the combustion runs through a separate circuit and the gases go outside.

Its "but": it needs electricity for the fan and the electronics, so it draws on your battery (a little, but it does). Brands such as Webasto or Planar are the usual references.

Gas heating

It runs on the camper's gas cylinders. It heats well and some models combine heating and hot water. The trade-off is the dependence on cylinders (they have to be refilled and they take up space) and the fact that gas demands a safe and normally approved installation. It's a solid option, above all if you already use gas for cooking.

Electric heating

An electric heater is cheap and simple, but we have to be honest here: heating with electricity uses a huge amount. A typical heater draws so much energy that it would empty your battery in very little time, so it's only realistic when you're plugged into the mains at a campsite or aire. As your main system for a night off-grid, it isn't viable; as a backup when you have a hook-up, it does the job.

Safety: the non-negotiable point

Any combustion system (diesel or gas) consumes oxygen and generates gases. So:

  • Always fit a carbon monoxide (CO) detector. CO has no smell and is lethal; it's the cheapest and most important investment.
  • Don't work on a gas installation yourself if you don't know how: have a professional fit and check it.
  • Keep a minimum of ventilation. Sealing the van completely so as not to lose heat is exactly what you shouldn't do.

Will the battery cope?

Although a diesel parking heater uses little electrically, that consumption runs all night, and it adds to the fridge and everything else. In winter, with less sun to recharge, is when energy is tightest. So it's worth being clear about your real runtime before choosing; you can estimate it in how much battery you need. And remember that cold also affects the battery itself: we look at that in temperature and lithium batteries.

In short

For real runtime, the diesel parking heater is the most balanced option (it heats a lot, uses little fuel and adds no moisture); gas is a good alternative if you already use it; and electric only makes sense plugged into the mains. The step you can take today: whichever you choose, fit a CO detector before anything else, and work out whether your battery can cope with the overnight consumption in winter. And before choosing a vehicle, compare the best vans to convert.

Work out the consumption before deciding

Electric heating and the parking heater's fan draw on the battery. Work out your runtime so you can choose without running out of power at night.

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