Albania has become the trendy destination for motorhomers looking for what the Mediterranean was like decades ago: almost untouched turquoise beaches, spectacular mountains, overflowing hospitality and incredibly low prices. It's a country still to be discovered, wild and authentic, that rewards those who dare. Here's the guide, with preparation ahead of time.
The Albanian Riviera
The gem: the south coast (the "Albanian Riviera"), with beaches and coves of crystal-clear water reminiscent of Greece but with a fraction of the crowds. Ksamil, Dhërmi, Himarë... a calm, turquoise Mediterranean. The nearby Greek island of Corfu is visible from the coast.
Mountains and nature
Inland, the Albanian Alps (the "Accursed Mountains") offer epic hiking and remote villages, and there are spectacular canyons, lakes and rivers (the Osum, the Vjosa river, one of the last wild rivers in Europe). Deep, solitary nature.
History and cities
Berat ("the city of a thousand windows") and Gjirokastra, both World Heritage sites, with their Ottoman architecture; Tirana, the colourful capital; the ruins of Butrint. A rich history of civilisations.
What you need to know
- Variable roads: they're improving fast, but there are still poor stretches; drive with care.
- Few campervan services: travel with autonomy and reserve water; free overnight parking is fairly relaxed but treat it with respect.
- Rock-bottom prices and huge hospitality.
- Documentation and insurance with proper cover (it's not in the EU; see customs).
- Its own currency (lek); carry some cash (see money abroad).
In summary
Albania is the hidden gem of the Adriatic: unspoilt beaches, wild mountains and incredible prices, a Mediterranean the way it was decades ago. The step to take today: combine the Albanian Riviera (Ksamil, Himarë) with an Ottoman city (Berat or Gjirokastra), travel with autonomy and international insurance, and enjoy an authentic destination before it gets overrun. Combine it with Croatia and the Balkans.